Setting up your GT2 car
Sometimes you get lucky, and the car drives perfectly; somehow, you don't need to change a thing. But for the other 99% of the cars, you have some work to do if you want to extract the most from each machine. Not to mention, there's many different courses, and it's rare that any one setting fits all courses. Well, don't be afraid, here's some assistance. Much appreciation for the various sources at the granturismo.com forums.

Spring Rate
This is one of the most important settings and the base for everything else. Each car requires a different poundage. Some roll is wanted in a car, as is responsiveness. I keep mine about halfway up the scale and within 2lbs. of each other with the rear usually being stiffer, too much of a variation can make it unpredictable. For flat track a higher setting is better for more response and handling, but on a bumpy track such as Trial Mountain a low setting will allow it to fallow the track and bumps without loss of control. If you tried a hard setting there, your car would fly into the air at every bump. If your car starts bouncing in corners such as Red Rocks, try reducing spring pressure in the front and back.
High Setting
The car is more responsive and has less roll, but too much will make the car bouncy and a very rigid handling car that jerks everywhere.
Low Setting
This makes the car have more roll and less responsive, but better for bumps. To me this also make it seem smoother.
Front High/Rear Low
This creates more understeer, just remember not to vary more than 2lbs. in usual cases.
Front Low/Rear High
This creates more oversteer, just remember not to vary more than 2lbs. in usual cases.

Ride Height
I usually keep mine at the lowest possible for front and a slightly higher for the rear. For drag racing, you'll get better times raising the rear all the way up, due to better weight transfer = traction. Normally a low setting would lead to bottoming out, but POLYPHONY Digital® didn't make the bottom of the cars solid, either due to time constraints or disk space. So in other words, adjust to your liking.
High Setting
Slightly less speed/traction and more roll.
Low Setting
Slightly more speed/traction and less roll.
Front High/Rear Low
This causes more understeer due to more weight transfer to the back and according to where they are positioned can cause the effects above.
Front Low/Rear High
This causes more oversteer due to more weight transfer forward, especially during braking. This is also dependent on where you exactly adjust them to cause above effects on the car.

Damper Bound/Rebound
This is probably one of the most useful setting for tuning your car. You can control almost all balance, oversteer, understeer, or any other quirks from here. Let it be known that the following info was taken from a post by "Exit Speed" (Thank You soooooo Much) in the Granturismo.com Settings Workshop Forum. Also with these, like springs, you’ll want to make them stiffer for flat tracks and softer for bumpy ones. Though I’d mess with the springs first to correct bounce and contact. Remember: Bound = Shock going up / Rebound = Shock coming back down.
Loose into turns
Soften Rear Rebound / Stiffen Front Bound
Loose out of turns (Increase oversteer when throttle is released in mid-corner)
Soften Front Rebound / Stiffen Rear Bound
Push into turns
Stiffen Rear Rebound / Soften Front Bound
Push out of turns
Stiffen Front Rebound / Soften Rear Bound

Camber
This is a easy to use yet useful setting, all it does is control traction of the front and rear wheels and each car has a different ideal camber. You must experiment, but it will usually be in the 1.x something range and the rear is a little bit less. The more the car weighs, the more camber it will probably need. Too much will actually decrease traction.
High Setting
Slightly lesser speed on straights, more traction.
Low Setting
Slightly more speed on straights, but less traction.
Front High/Rear Low
Increased oversteer by way of more front wheel traction.
Front Low/Rear High
Increased understeer by way of less traction for the front wheels.

Toe
This is a nice little setting, I like to use it give a car more push into the corners, and a nice understeering slide out of the corners. It involves a reduction in traction many times, but's an ideal little tool to mess with when nothing else works right.
Negative Setting (Toe-in)
Initial oversteer, followed by exit understeer.
Positive Setting (Toe-out)
Initial understeer, followed by exit oversteer.

Stabilizer
Usually the final tuning can be made here to tweak the car. Too much can be a bad thing.
High Setting
Less roll, increased response. Less stability on rough surfaces.
Low Setting
More roll, decreased response. More stability on rough surfaces.
Front High/Rear Low
Increased oversteer.
Front Low/Rear High
Increases understeer.

Brake Controller
This controls braking pressure on the front and back tires. Due to weight transfer during braking, the front should be a little higher than the front since the back will start working first. This will help prevent spinouts. Also, leave these off until you tune the car first, as they can cause another variable to mess you up, you don’t know whether it’s the suspension or brake controller spinning you out. These effects only take place during braking.
High Setting
Increased braking power, but may decrease stability.
Low Setting
Decreased braking power.
Front high/Rear Low
Increased understeer during braking.
Front Low/Rear High
Increase oversteer during braking.

Downforce
This is a very important setting that is only available on race body fitted cars. You can control traction, understeer, oversteer, and stability from here. Usually the higher the better the car is and it will stick to the track more.
High Setting
More traction and stability at higher speeds.
Low Setting
Less traction and stability at higher speeds.
Front High/Rear Low
This creates more oversteer at higher speeds and the faster the more oversteer.
Front Low/Rear High
This creates more understeer at higher speeds and the faster the more understeer.

Limited Slip Differential
This is a nice setting that can make or break a car. It effects the balance of the car and can make a 4WD handle like a FR. There are 3 settings: Initial, Accel, and Decel. On any FF, FR, RR, or MR I use the setting 10/36/25. For 4WDs I use 10/10 25/36 16/25, which makes them handle more like an FR.
Initial
Higher the faster the LSD kicks in, a low setting makes the car act like it doesn’t have one at all. It seems to me a high initial setting actually degrades handling and increases bumpiness.
Accel
The effect the LSD has under acceleration. The higher the more it has effect under acceleration, depends on initial.
Decel
Effect LSD has under deceleration. This seems to act better when it’s set lower than the Accel or the car will become jumpy and/or spinout.

"For Professionals"
Generally, use of the ASC and TCS is frowned upon by hard-core GT2-GT3 racers, but here's a little bit about them, anyhow. In many cases, it can be used for cheating, not to mention, they aren't available in GT1, so getting used to them isn't going to make you a better driver.
Yaw
This is only available one very few cars, a couple to be named are a few Skylines and the Evolution VI. Since this is for Rally we will not go into detail, but it replaces the LSD.
ASC
This is a device made to keep your car from spinning when you brake by automatically varying brake pressure on the tires. Too high a number can cause understeer.
TCS
This is a device that is supposed to keep your car’s wheels from spinning by automatically releasing of the accelerator. Too high a setting will decrease acceleration.


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